All eyes were on Kate Middleton’s dazzling headpiece at King Charles’s coronation last year.
After weeks of tiara debates—which one will she wear? Will she wear one at all?—the question on everyone’s lips was finally answered. Kate crowned her simple up-do with an intricate creation by milliner Jess Collett in collaboration with the Alexander McQueen fashion house.
The headpiece rightfully earns a place in our tiara section—not only for the grandeur of the event it adorned, but also for its intricate design, masterful construction, and truly breathtaking appearance. Let’s examine the headpiece in detail, explore why Kate chose it instead of a traditional tiara, and consider why she commissioned the designer.
The Design:
The headpiece featured intricately embroidered three-dimensional leaves crafted from silver bullion thread and adorned with crystal embellishments.
The leaves and florals were a nod to the botanical motifs King Charles used throughout the coronation—including the flowers in the coronation ‘emblem’, the hand-embroidered tree on the anointing screen used at the most sacred moment of the coronation, and of course, the intricate hand-painted illustrations used for the invitations. King Charles is well-known for his love of the natural world, so it’s was a theme he wanted echoing throughout the celebrations.
Kate’s headpiece was paired with a simple up-do, allowing the piece to take centre stage. This styling choice accentuated the headpiece’s elegant design and ensured it was a memorable fashion moment.
Why didn’t Kate wear a ‘traditional’ tiara to The King’s Coronation?
This exquisite headpiece surprised many royal watchers who tuned into the coronation celebrations. We all expected a tiara, as they’re typically reserved for special occasions—and what could be more special to the Royal Family than the coronation of a new monarch?
However, it’s widely reported that Kate opted for a headpiece instead of a tiara to align with King Charles’ scaled-back celebrations. The king desired a more low-key affair compared to previous coronations, a prudent choice given the current ‘cost of living’ crisis.
As such, no royals—British or foreign—wore tiaras to the coronation. In hindsight, perhaps we shouldn’t have been so surprised. The Times had previously reported that Kate might wear a ‘floral headpiece’ to the coronation. However, this was interpreted as a ‘crown of flowers,’ suggesting fresh blooms and dismissed by many as being too informal.
The resulting headpiece, though different from what many anticipated, was both elegant and fitting for the occasion. It maintained a regal appearance without all the grandeur and splendour of a gem-encrusted tiara.
Special Royal Connection:
I suspect Jess Collett was purposefully chosen for this commission—she has a significant tie to the royals, and to Charles himself. A loan from The Princes’s Trust 25 years ago allowed the milliner to launch her now flourishing business.
On Instagram, Jess Collett acknowledged the link by writing a thank-you message: “Thank you King Charles and The Princess Trust for your support… still going strong today and loving my trade.”
Jess Collett’s creations have graced the pages of prestigious magazines like Tatler, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar, among others. Her connection to the Wales family is noteworthy, as she has designed hats and headbands for Charlotte’s aunt and Kate’s sister, Pippa Middleton Matthews, on multiple occasions.
I don’t think anybody was surprised that Kate chose Alexander McQueen to dress her for the coronation. The Princess has had a strong partnership with the label since her wedding in 2011, when she wore two custom gowns by Sarah Burton, the brand’s creative director at the time. The Princess has worn McQueen creations to most significant royal engagements and high profile events since marrying Princess William.
Alexander McQueen is a quintessentially British brand, making it a fitting choice for a high-profile royal occasion like a coronation.
